5 Under-the-Radar Spots to Eat Like a Local in L.A.'s Chinatown
Sissy Trinh, who’s the founder of Southeast Asian Community Alliance (SEACA) in Chinatown, is the kind of person who goes into the neighborhood with a sense of curiosity.
On any given day, she’ll visit three or four businesses in a half hour walk around Chinatown and pick up items from markets, bakeries and restaurants. Trinh will also make an effort to order unfamiliar dishes at a restaurant and engage with owners, asking them what their specialties are.
At SEACA, her nonprofit empowers local Southeast Asian communities through educating the youth about leadership and community organizing, and advocating for groups in regards to socio-economic and racial justice issues.
In her time being committed to the Chinatown community, she’s also found a few under-the-radar restaurants and markets that she frequents. Here are some of her favorite spots.
Long’s Family Pastry
At this Cantonese bakery, glass cases are filled with sweets such as pineapple buns and sesame balls. It’s also a place where you can get quickly grab dim sum items, like steamed har gow, siu mai and char siu bao. But for Trinh, her favorites are the egg tarts and rice porridge, noting how you can get a full breakfast for just a few bucks.
It’s the atmosphere that draws her to Long’s as well. "I used to love going there before the pandemic in the mornings because you would see a bunch of seniors coming together having breakfast and gossiping," Trinh said. "It had a very neighborhood scene."
715 N. Spring St., Chinatown, (213) 622-5255.
Yue Wa Market and China Book Store
Outside of Yue Wa Market and China Book Store (a produce market which just so happens to have a book store name), a bounty of fresh Asian fruits and vegetables spill out of the shops and onto tables on the sidewalks. Trinh loves finding ginger, long green beans, bok choy and mangoes at these stores. She’s even picked up some banh chung, a banana leaf-wrapped sticky rice specialty, at China Book Store during Lunar New Year.
But one of her favorite things about going to these markets is hearing different Asian languages being spoken, from Vietnamese to Chinese dialects. "Part of what I love about Chinatown is having these little interactions that are really hard to get in other neighborhoods," Trinh said.
Yue Wa Market at 658 N. Broadway, Chinatown, (213) 680-4229.
China Book Store at 652B N. Broadway, Chinatown.
Jade Wok
While Jade Wok’s menu can be an intimidating one because of its sheer number of dishes, one of its most popular ones is the "house special tofu," a favorite of Trinh’s.
When Trinh was part of a martial arts troupe that practiced at the Alpine Recreation Center, she would regularly go to Jake Wok after sessions with some friends. One day, someone in her group suggested they try the house special tofu, and Trinh remembers it being a game changer: "We were like, ‘Oh my god, this is delicious. We've been missing out this entire time.’"
Mama Los Angeles, a platform that highlights multicultural cuisines and dishes, recently made an Instagram video about Jade Wok’s house special tofu, learning that it was a recipe that has been in the business for over 30 years. It was a Malaysian family dish that has been passed down from owner to owner. The tofu is made from scratch and lightly deep fried, and then served swimming in a rich sauce that has mushrooms, fermented black beans, and ground pork.
625 W College St #109, Chinatown, (213) 628-8288, jadewokchinese.com.
Zen Mei Bistro
While customers can find familiar dishes like kung pao chicken and honey walnut shrimp at the longstanding Zen Mei, it’s also a seafood lovers dream. The restaurant carries specialties like sautéed scallops with chives, clams with black bean sauce and braised sea cucumber.
Trinh’s favorite is getting Zen Mei’s lobster, which is served in a variety of ways, from stir fried with scallions to slathered in a house special sauce. It’s at a more affordable price point than you’ll find at most restaurants, Trinh said.
800 Yale St., Chinatown, (213) 626-7113.
Queen’s Bakery
It’s hard to miss the pink facade of Queen’s Bakery, a trusty mainstay in Chinatown for Chinese and European-style pastries. Known for their rice puff cakes, taro rolls and pineapple buns, Queen’s glass cases are always stocked with sweet treats. Trinh’s favorite thing to get is their mocha cakes.
And pro-tip: If you need a last-minute birthday cake, Queen’s usually have them on hand and ready to go.
809 N. Broadway, Chinatown, (213) 622-9749.
Lanza Brothers Market
While technically in Lincoln Heights, Lanza Brothers Market, a place that has been around since 1926, is just a mile away from Chinatown and is one of Trinh’s favorite local spots.
"They make Italian sandwiches and it's owned by a Korean family," Trinh explains.
Customers can find Italian deli meats, like mortadella, capocollo and salami on the sandwiches. And there are grab-and-go items in its market, such as chips, beer and ice cream.
1803 N. Main St., Lincoln Heights, (323) 225-8977.
